The Booze Of The Bourgeoisie

Sep 18 2013 @ 1:39pm

Afshin Molavi sizes up Johnnie Walker’s bid to become the whisky of the global middle class:

It’s uncanny, the ubiquity of the striding Scot and his blended whisky (no “e” for the Scottish 6a00d83451c45669e2015438653bb3970c-550wikind). It’s everywhere, particularly among the upper end of the middle classes that the world’s corporations are chasing. In Thailand, businessmen place a bottle of Black Label on the table before a closing negotiation. In Japan, bottles have become an essential part of the ritualized gift-giving culture. In India, one of Bollywood’s most famous comedians even took the name Johnny Walker. It’s such a status symbol in Asia that Johnnie Walker knockoffs aren’t hard to find. You probably wouldn’t want to serve guests the counterfeit liquor, but the bottle looks good on the mantle.

And in Africa, the newest gold mine of emerging markets, [parent company] Diageo is cultivating a fresh generation of whisky drinkers. In downtown Nairobi, a 20-story billboard of the Striding Man towers alongside a skyscraper. African musicians and athletes have been named “brand ambassadors,” and premium magazines are running a series of print ads that say simply: “Step Up.” As in, step up to a better life, step up to the middle class, step up from that stale beer to a higher state of being: Become a whisky drinker.

Yep, someone we all know must be smiling somewhere.

(Photo by Karin Cooper/Getty Images)