Roger Scruton describes, in part, how he tried to make the delicacy known in northern England as “black pudding”
Detaching and cleaning [the pig’s] small intestine was the easy part. Harder by far is turning sickly blood into savoury stuffing. The English way, of sopping it up in rusk or barley, loses both texture and flavour. The right way is to pour in masses of cream, which lightens the texture and prevents the blood from clotting, and then to add warm fat from the flank, onions melted in lard, salt, pepper and quatre epices. Sections of stuffed gut, tied at both ends and gently simmered, emerged from this ordeal looking exactly as Zola might have described them–le ventre de la famille, in which need and greed lay coiled together.
Mmmmm.
The Dish 