by Zoë Pollock
Rosecrans Baldwin refuses to outgrow nachos. He details how they've had their reputation ruined:
Nachos may have begun in Mexico, but they're American by now. What a horrible reputation they've got; people are incredulous when I order them as an entrée. Nachos are the martinis of snack food: a simple recipe that has been abused to scrape money off drunks. Don't get me started on bars that drench them in sour cream and watery salsas, like burial mounds. Or ballpark nachos, with salt licks disguised as chips and a side of chemicals. Disgusting examples abound—sashimi nachos; salad nachos lacking cheese. I'm sure in Los Angeles you can order a green-apple nacho plate, with Red Bull.
Maud Newton relishes them from a Texan perspective.
The Dish 